Each make of truck will be a little different, perhaps, so remember to measure! My truck happens to be a 1996 Dodge Dakota, and the stake holes in my particular truck are 6" deep, and 2 1/2" X 1 5/16". To determine the amount you need to cut from the ends of the boards that will go into the stake holes, you must determine your truck's stake hole size. If you do decide to make it this way, be sure to get the proper screws that are coated for outdoor use so they will not rust. To make the corner braces and shelf, I used a pocket hole jig, a Kreg Jig, but that step is not absolutely necessary. Pressure Treated 2x4s, each 8 foot long (amount will vary based upon your truck.I will not show that step as I plan on making that a removable item later on when I need it. If I were to haul ladders and other long items up high, then I would attach another board at the top of the rear rails so the weight would be above and level, not sagging into the bed. Of course, the main purpose for my design is that I haul scrap metal, so I wanted the rails high, but open at the tailgate end in order to allow easy loading of things like refrigerators and other tall items. The bed of my truck is 6 1/2 feet long, so I bought 8 foot pieces of 2x4 because I also wanted a lip that stretched over the roof of the cab in order to help protect the roof and allow me to haul things up high like ladders and kayaks. Also, I made sure to use a washer between the bolt and the nut so as to get the best tightness when secured and not allow the nut to bite into the wood. The particular bolts I used were 3/8" bolts that were 4" long (which is the perfect size for 2x4 construction). Once again, I used Zinc so as to prevent rusting of the bolts, and I used carriage bolts because they are very durable. You can also paint the wood, or seal it with a water sealant, but it's not necessary with pressure treated wood.įor the bolts that I used to connect the boards together, I used Zinc carriage bolts. It's important to use pressure treated wood since this will be exposed to the elements and you do not want the wood rotting in the weather. Dimension: 84.000 x 5.000 x 15.In order to create the rails that I have pictured, I used pressure treated lumber 2x4s.The Tube Rail is available in two configurations: the FULL RAIL, which extends the full length of the truck bed and the TOOLBOX RAIL, where the Tube Rail stops short to accommodate the insertion of a cross bed Toolbox. TOOLBOX FRIENDLY: BACKRACK(TM) Siderails are available for both 6.5 ft and 8 ft bed lengths. Turn down the nuts with a ratchet, and finish the installation by inserting the plastic caps inside the stake holes to hide all the fasteners. Once you secure the custom Stake Pocket Bolts into the stake holes, the Siderails drop into the pockets over the bolts. SIMPLE NO DRILL INSTALLATION: Drop them on and bolt them in. Siderails install with or without our Cab Guards and are fully compatible with Crossbed Toolboxes. BACKRACK(TM) Siderails are designed to compliment the angles of our Cab Guards. RUGGED GOOD LOOKS: If it wears the BACKRACK(TM) brand name it has to be work ready, but it can still look good while getting the job done. BACKRACK(TM) Siderails are ready to handle whatever you bring to the job site. Heavy gauge HRPO tube is fully welded to an angular base that runs the full length of your truck bed. BACKRACK(TM) Siderails are industrial grade and designed for trucks that push the envelope of on-the-job abuse. You do not want Siderails that try to look tough but have no purpose.
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